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Thunder Creek Falls, New Zealand

Backpacking in New Zealand: a Travel Guide

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Find out everything you need to know about backpacking in New Zealand. What travel essentials should you add to your backpack? How can you stay on a budget in one of the world’s most prosperous nations? And where can you go if you want to get off the beaten track? Learn all about New Zealand and its unique culture in our complete first-hand experience New Zealand Travel Guide for backpacking ‘Aotearoa’.

Table of Contents

About New Zealand

There’s no place in the world quite like New Zealand. Situated south of Australia in the Southern Hemisphere, the country is also known as Aotearoa in Māori. Aotearoa means ‘the land of the long white cloud’. Watching the clouds linger around the mountains in North Island’s Tongariro National Park, it becomes obvious why. New Zealand’s landscape is littered with epic mountain ranges reaching for the clouds, and spectacular glaciers pierce out of the country’s lush temperate rainforests. The country is home to a variety of unique wild animals, and with over 15,000 kilometers of shoreline, the nation’s marine wildlife is equally impressive.

Aotearoa, ‘the land of the long white cloud’
Aotearoa, ‘the land of the long white cloud’ (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

New Zealand consists of two islands bordering the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean: the bustling North Island, and the otherworldly South Island. Up on North Island you can explore urban Wellington and experience the international vibe of Auckland, or hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing featured in The Lord of the Rings (2001-2003). Down on South Island, you’ll find winter sports haven Queenstown, as well as Kaikōura, a small coastal town dominated by a multitude of mesmerizing forms of wildlife.

The remote geographic position of New Zealand helped preserve the country’s unique and peaceful existence. Aotearoa’s untouched landscapes have been explored by a handful of local movie directors, such as Peter Jackson, who shot both King Kong (2005) and The Lord of the Rings-series on the islands. His fellow countryman Taika Waititi in turn filmed Hunt for the Wilderpeople (2016) in west Auckland’s Waitakere Ranges. Though the films painted a beautiful portrait of the country’s stunning scenery, New Zealand’s isolated nature luckily prevents it from ever getting too busy.

Quick Facts

Capital: The capital of New Zealand is Wellington.

Language: The official languages in New Zealand are English, Māori, and NZ Sign Language.

Currency: The currency in New Zealand is the New Zealand dollar (NZD), informally known as the “Kiwi dollar”.

Power Plugs: Plug Type I, with the electricity supply running at 230/240 volts.

Drinking water: In New Zealand, the tap water is fine to drink. The country’s mountains provide an excellent source of clear water.

Safety: While locals in Australia humorously claim “everything can kill you” Down Under, New Zealanders reinvented the statement by jokingly stating that “in New Zealand, nothing can kill you”. New Zealand is one of the safest countries in the world, offering backpackers an easy and comfortable traveling experience.

7 things to look forward to: hitchhiking, kiwis, Fergburgers, glaciers, fur seals, mountain ranges, Hobbits.

Video: On the Road: New Zealand

See what it’s like to travel New Zealand! (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Money saving tips: backpacking New Zealand on a budget

How much money do you need to travel around New Zealand? Backpacking the country will set you back quite a bit more than visiting other popular backpacker destinations such as Thailand or Argentina. New Zealand boasts a strong economy dependent on agriculture and international trade. Dairy, milk, wool, and wine are some of the nation’s most popular products. In comparison to most countries in the world, New Zealand is a rather expensive country to go backpacking. Unlike the ‘nearby’ Southeast Asian countries, it’s not just the flight ticket that will set you back financially. Transportation, accommodation, and activities all come at a relatively high price.

Despite the country’s strong financial positions, New Zealand offers plenty of opportunities to cut back on your spending while backpacking. Rather than traveling by public transportation, it is possible to rent a car or campervan, or even hitchhike. Additionally, every city you’ll visit on your trip is likely to have at least one or two relatively cheap hostels. The best way to save money while backpacking New Zealand, however, is by doing your own cooking. New Zealand is a very popular work-and-travel destination, and you’ll often run into backpackers who are semi-permanently living in the hostels you stay at. Because of this, most hostels feature a fully equipped kitchen, making it possible for visitors and temporary residents to cook their own meals.

Hitchhiking South Island
Hitchhiking South Island (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Aside from travel and accommodation, your travel budget will largely be determined by the activities you intend to do. New Zealand, for example, is the birthplace of bungy jumping. A single jump will cost you a steep amount of money. If you intend to travel onwards after New Zealand to places where bungy jumping comes at a quarter of the price in a similarly beautiful location, what will you do? It’s these choices that will affect your budget in a big way.

While most blogs might pinpoint you on a budget of NZ$3,750,- per month per person (€2,100,- or US$2,500,-), you can easily make it on a monthly budget of less than NZ$1,500,- (€850,- or US$1,000,-) if you make all the right choices. More than in any other place, your expenditure here will depend on your need for comfort, your sense of adventure, and the choices you make along the road.

Quick Tips

A few quick tips for saving money while backpacking New Zealand:

  • Hitchhike.
  • Don’t fly; travel the roads.
  • Go CouchSurfing, or stay in hostels.
  • Cook your own meals.
  • Seek your own adventures: hike, raft, and enjoy the country’s mesmerizing landscapes, but avoid spending hundreds of dollars on activities you can do for peanuts on your next trip to Southeast Asia.

Accommodation

Sleeping in New Zealand

In terms of accommodation, New Zealand has something for everyone. As a backpacker though, you’ll most likely want to look into the nation’s many hostels. When choosing your accommodation in New Zealand there are two important things to look out for:

  1. is there a kitchen available for cooking your own meals, and
  2. how did previous visitors experience the WiFi connection – if there is one at all?

Kiwi WiFi is notoriously bad, and you’ll need to make sure you can at least use the hostel’s connection for travel essentials, such as making bookings and checking reservations. Of course, there’s a certain charm in not being able to spend your days on your smartphone. You’ll find that in an enchanting town like Kaikōura, it’s easy to forget about your daily browsing habits.

Here are some of our favorite hostels in New Zealand:

South Island

North Island

Lose yourself in the wilderness of New Zealand’s South Island
Lose yourself in the wilderness of New Zealand’s South Island (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Work and travel

Throughout New Zealand you’ll see that backpackers aren’t the only foreigners staying in the country’s many hostels. Many young adults between the ages of 18 and 30 come to New Zealand on a work and travel visa. The idea is simple, yet effective: they fly to New Zealand, where a few month’s work can earn them a rather sizeable amount of money. Living in hostels comes cheap, especially when making a deal with the hostel owner regarding a long term stay. In this way, it is possible to save enough money within half a year or so to travel the whole country, Australia, and perhaps a bit of Southeast Asia or Polynesia as well.

If you’d like to try out New Zealand’s work-and-travel program, and you opt for a long-term stay in a hostel, do keep in mind that the people you share your room with are on a vacation. They’ll arrive tired and will often have to get up early in the morning to catch their next ride. Don’t act like you own the room just because you’ve stayed there so long. Long term residents are considered the greatest nuisance in any of New Zealand’s hostels, so it’ll be up to you to improve their reputation!

Getting around in New Zealand

Renting a Campervan or Car

For backpackers, the most popular way to explore New Zealand is by hiring – or buying – a vehicle. During your time in ‘the land of the long white cloud’, you’ll come across many campervans driven by vacationing flashpackers. Hiring a campervan (or car) means opting for the freedom to explore the country at your own pace: you can go anywhere you like, and sleep anywhere you like.

You’ll be surprised how easy it is to purchase a second-hand car in New Zealand. Backpackers often travel North to South, or vice versa, which means that in “final” destinations such as Queenstown, Wellington, or Auckland, you won’t have much trouble purchasing a car from travelers who just finished their trip. Again, this is where it pays off to stay in hostels, as hostels are the perfect place to find backpackers willing to sell their car. Additionally, you can find a car through the Facebook groups Backpacker Cars New Zealand and Backpackers Cars Buy&Sell New Zealand.

New Zealand roads are spacious and allow for safe driving, though locals might not always agree with that statement. Though some Kiwis feel their roads are not up to standard, you’ll only find yourself chuckling at their complaints when comparing their roads to any other road you ever drove on. It is safe to say Kiwi roads are most often in pitch-perfect condition, despite being called “dodgy” by the locals every once in a while.

Rent a car or campervan to navigate New Zealand
Rent a car or campervan to navigate New Zealand (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Hitchhiking

The true budget-friendly option for getting around New Zealand is hitchhiking. Down in South Island, your thumb will get you anywhere you like within no time. Unless you are truly unfortunate, you’ll be picked up within 30 minutes or less from most spots. You’ll find Kiwis to be quite friendly and considered. Especially on South Island, where there’s not much traffic, people will be generally inclined to give you a ride.

You’ll have a bit more trouble hitchhiking the North Island – especially around Wellington, where the “big city vibe” leads to many chauffeurs shrugging off your presence – but even there you’re likely to be picked up within the hour.

Keep in mind that legally, campervans and trucks aren’t allowed to pick you up, as there is a set limit to the number of people allowed inside their vehicles, and no one is allowed to sit in the back while driving.

Busses and Trains

When choosing comfort over freedom, New Zealand also offers the option to travel by bus. Services are good, and many of the busses are tailored especially for backpackers and other travelers. Kiwi busses will get you in and out of major towns and tourist hotspots, but it might prove difficult to visit the country’s off-track destinations.

Aside from the amazing TranzAlpine railway on South Island, trains are virtually non-existent in New Zealand and come at a high price.

Domestic Flights

There are many options for traveling around New Zealand. To get the best out of your holiday, we would definitely recommend against flying, though. The country isn’t all that big, and only ground travel will allow you to truly experience the nation’s breathtaking landscapes. Plus, you’ll keep your trip eco-friendly, and save some money at the same time!

When to visit New Zealand

New Zealand’s landscapes define its climate. Temperatures vary heavily around the country due to the many environmental differences. On average, the temperatures on the South Island are a bit below those on the North Island. So pack wisely, and be prepared for anything!

Summer is often the most popular time to visit New Zealand. In December, January, and February, the temperature rises, as does the number of tourists. This means hotels, touristic destinations and even roads can get a little busy.

The best time to travel to New Zealand, however, is during the spring, or during autumn. In September, October, and November, little lambs and tiny alpacas take a hold of the country’s boundless green countryside, flowers start blooming, and the snowy mountain caps slowly melt away. A few months later in March, April, and May, the leaves turn color and the crowds move out as the country prepares for the winter season.

Queenstown in the autumn
Queenstown in the autumn (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Of course, if you are into winter sports, winter will be your season. The Kiwi winter starts in June and lasts throughout July and August. New Zealand’s impressive mountains offer great opportunities to engage in snow sports, such as skiing and snowboarding.

What to pack for New Zealand

The Essentials

I’m going to New Zealand, and I’m bringing…

  • A light-weight scarf.
  • One sweater or coat; or be prepared to layer-up when cold weather hits.
  • (Fingerless) gloves.

New Zealand features all the comforts of home, and you’ll lack nothing. Still, if you’ve just flown in from Indonesia, you might regret not buying some warm clothes before leaving the equator. Buying clothes is quite expensive in New Zealand. The day you arrive you’ll notice it to be a common mistake for backpackers from Southeast Asia not to bring warm clothes. In Queenstown, it’s especially easy to spot Asian travelers who failed to recognize the changeable Kiwi weather in advance: they all walk around wearing scarves, sweaters, and gloves bought at the local tourist shop. Consider it a warning: unless you want to spend your first days’ budget on buying warm clothes, come prepared.

Unlike traveling in ‘nearby’ Australia, you best pack your coat, your umbrella, and a lightweight scarf, even when you’re visiting New Zealand during summer. Prepare for any kind of weather, but don’t over-pack: make sure you have enough clothes to combine them into layers. Only bring your thick coat when you’re traveling in winter; during other seasons, combine a lighter coat with shirts or a sweater. Since most hostels accept long term residents, it’s often possible to do your laundry along the way.
New Zealand’s snow-capped mountain ranges
New Zealand’s snow-capped mountain ranges (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Visa Information

To enter New Zealand you must have a valid passport and approved New Zealand visa. Most visitors can obtain a New Zealand Electronic Travel Authorisation-visa (NZeTA), which is valid for 90 days or less. Though this is known as a ‘visa on arrival’, you must apply for it before take-off. Make sure to have valid onward travel arrangements when entering the country, as you are required to prove you don’t intend to stay permanently.

Aside from a regular visa, working holiday visas are also relatively easily obtained – but only after you’ve secured a job. You can obtain one of these temporary working visas if you are aged between 18-30 years (18-35 for some countries), and have enough money in your bank account to afford an outbound ticket from New Zealand.

Enjoy the local culture

The Old and the New

Compared to most nations, New Zealand is a relatively young country. The islands of New Zealand were first settled by seafaring Polynesians approximately 700 years ago and were later discovered by the Dutch in 1642. The Polynesians’ descendants became known as the M?ori, who formed their own distinct culture. Colonization and large-scale European settlement led to many changes, eventually giving rise to the country we know today.

New Zealand’s culture is defined by a mix of the old and the new. The country’s architecture is predominantly European, but local Polynesian influences can be detected in most areas. A visit to the country wouldn’t be complete without immersing yourself in the rich culture of the indigenous M?ori tribes.

The Māori

Two of the best places to explore Māori culture are the Te Papa Tongarewa Museum of New Zealand, and the old Māori village of Te Whakarewarewatanga O Te Ope Taua A Wahiao, situated just south of Rotorua in the Taupo Volcanic Zone. It is possible to visit the Māori village – Whakarewarewa for short – using a local guide who will introduce you to the spiritual stories and traditions of the Māori. Traditionally, the Māori prepared their meals over the volcanic zone’s thermal vents. These natural make-shift ovens named ‘hangi’ can be found everywhere in Whakarewarewa. Your guide will also teach you the traditional Māori greeting, the hongi, which is performed by two people pressing their noses together and sometimes includes the touching of foreheads.

Performing the traditional Māori greeting, the hongi
Performing the traditional Māori greeting, the hongi (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

A Healthy Nation

Perhaps due to their isolated nature, New Zealanders are often welcoming to foreign travelers. They have a strong sense of social responsibility and healthy living, as is evident in several cities where smoking inside the city center is forbidden. If you manage to catch a local TV broadcast, you’ll notice there are many commercials targeting mental health problems such as depression and isolation, rather than ads trying to sell cars and other trinkets. Kiwi TV is a clear indicator that New Zealand has evolved into a considered and caring nation.

Things to eat and drink

New Zealand cuisine constitutes of a mix of Australian, European, and local specialties. Being an agricultural country featuring many sheep farms, you can expect mutton to be a large part of your diet during your stay. Additionally, the country’s extensive coastline bordering the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean serves as an important source of food as well. Aside from mutton and seafood, New Zealand features a few other distinct food options you must try while visiting.

The Fergburger

The Queenstown Fergburger is one of the country’s most famous specialties. Prepared locally in the Fernburger hamburger restaurant in Queenstown, the burgers are prepared with lamb, cod, falafel, a swine-and-chicken mix, or venison.

The Fergburger, a Queenstown speciality
The Fergburger, a Queenstown specialty (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

New Zealand Wine

New Zealand’s unique soil and climatic conditions express themselves perfectly in the wine produced in the South Island. Otago is one of the country’s richest wine regions, which is mirrored by Hawke’s Bay on the North Island.

Hokey Pokey

Around 1980, the Kiwis invented a new combination of ice cream flavors: vanilla ice cream with small, solid lumps of honeycomb toffee. You can find this typical Kiwi ice cream in many dairy shops, or in local supermarkets.

Hangi

The Māori traditionally prepare their food using natural resources, such as thermal vents. It is a truly amazing experience to dine on a tender and delicious piece of chicken or mutton – or going vegetarian, potatoes – prepared over many hours in the Māori’s traditional thermal ovens. The volcanic gasses add an earthy, smoky flavor to the food.

A 'hangi', a tradtional Māori thermal oven
A ‘hangi’, a tradtional Māori thermal oven (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Seafood

One of New Zealand’s local specialties on South Island is crayfish or rock lobster. Though seafood can be quite expensive, it’s definitely worth the money. Given the nation’s island status, the seafood is invariably fresh. From British-style fish and chips to green-lipped mussels, other shellfish, and scallops, New Zealand offers the best from the deep seas.

Kiwi Fruit

When in New Zealand, don’t ever call a kiwifruit a “kiwi”! Doing so is considered insulting, as the word “Kiwi” is used as the official nickname for New Zealanders. Though the distinction is only made in Australia and New Zealand, it’s an important one to remember. Also note that the kiwifruit is of Chinese origin, which wasn’t grown in New Zealand until the early 20th century. The name “kiwifruit” was conceived for export marketing in the early ’60s.

Whittakers

The New Zealand Whittaker family has been producing chocolate since 1896. Whittaker is the largest chocolate brand in New Zealand, and in recent years its popularity overseas has grown as well. Though Whittaker’s chocolate was sold using horse and van in the past, it can now be found everywhere in the country. A classic Whittaker’s slab is the Roasted Almond milk chocolate bar.

Meat Pies

Popular in both Australia and New Zealand, hand-sized meat pies are a treat in-between treats. The pies contain diced or minced meat and gravy, sometimes combined with onion, mushrooms, or cheese. The meat pies are often consumed as a takeaway food snack. Though the nutritional value of meat pies is a hot topic in New Zealand, it remains a popular treat.

Milford Sound, one of South Island’s most magnificent fjords
Milford Sound, one of South Island’s most magnificent fjords (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Get off the Beaten Track

Most backpackers heading for New Zealand start off at Auckland on North Island, and travel downwards until they reach Queenstown or Te Anau on South Island. For what is likely to be a once-in-a-lifetime-experience, this might not be the best solution for you.

The urban feel of North Island might be attractive to some, but the Kiwi cities situated on North Island aren’t exactly unique. They are modern, urban hubs similar to big Australian and American cities. In the Kiwi cities, you’ll find all the same brands, foods, and stores you’re already familiar with, combined with a few local ones.

The real splendor and uniqueness of New Zealand lies in the South Island. Quiet and untouched, the South Island’s landscapes and wildlife will stay with you forever. There, you can hike through national parks such as Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, visit the International Dark Sky Reserve on the south side of the Southern Alps, or travel northwards of the Alps along the Franz Josef glacier.

If you are looking for a unique adventure – one you can only have in New Zealand, and nowhere else – but you don’t have the time to visit both islands, then the South Island will be your destination of choice. Not exploring New Zealand’s national parks is similar to visiting Australia without seeing a single kangaroo.

Check out our full list of things to do in New Zealand!

Thunder Creek Falls, New Zealand
Thunder Creek Falls, one of New Zealand’s many waterfalls (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Pre-view: the best films from New Zealand

To get you excited for your trip, we’ve selected some of the best films from New Zealand! Of course, New Zealand is also listed on our list of the best films from around the world, as well as in our selection of the best films from Oceania.

Hunt for the Wilderpeople

Hunt for the Wilderpeople
Directed by: Taika Waititi, 2016.
A national manhunt is ordered for a rebellious kid and his foster uncle who go missing in the wild New Zealand bush.

Once Were Warriors

Once Were Warriors
Directed by: Lee Tamahori, 1994.
A family descended from Maori warriors is bedeviled by a violent father and the societal problems of being treated as outcasts.

Whale Rider

Whale Rider
Directed by: Niki Caro, 2002.
A contemporary story of love, rejection, and triumph as a young Maori girl fights to fulfill a destiny her grandfather refuses to recognize.

Black Sheep

Black Sheep
Directed by: Jonathan King, 2006.
An experiment in genetic engineering turns harmless sheep into bloodthirsty killers that terrorize a sprawling New Zealand farm.

The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship Of The Ring

The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring
Directed by: Peter Jackson, 2001.
A meek Hobbit from the Shire and eight companions set out on a journey to destroy the powerful One Ring and save Middle-earth from the Dark Lord Sauron.

What We Do in the Shadows

What We Do in the Shadows
Directed by: Jemaine Clement & Taika Waititi, 2014.
Viago, Deacon, and Vladislav are vampires who are finding that modern life in Wellington has them struggling with the mundane – like paying rent, keeping up with the chore wheel, trying to get into nightclubs, and overcoming flatmate conflicts.

The Piano

The Piano
Directed by: Jane Campion, 1993.
In the mid-19th century, a mute woman is sent to New Zealand along with her young daughter and prized piano for an arranged marriage to a wealthy landowner, but is soon lusted after by a local worker on the plantation.

Boy

Boy
Directed by: Taika Waititi, 2010.
Set on the east coast of New Zealand in 1984, Boy, an 11-year-old child and devout Michael Jackson fan, gets a chance to know his absentee criminal father, who has returned to find a bag of money he buried years ago.

Pre-read: the best books from New Zealand

To get you even more excited about your trip, we’ve selected some of the best books about New Zealand as well. Pick up one of these gems to get into the spirit of the Land of the Long White Cloud!

A Land of Two Halves
Author: Joe Bennett, 2004.
After 10 years in New Zealand, Joe Bennett asked himself what on earth he was doing there. Hitching around both the intriguingly named North and South Islands, with an eye for oddity and a taste for conversation, Bennett began to remind himself of the reasons New Zealand is quietly seducing the rest of the world.

The Luminaries

The Luminaries
Author: Eleanor Catton, 2013.
In 1866, young Walter Moody comes to South Island to make his fortune upon the New Zealand goldfields. Instead, he stumbles into a tense meeting between twelve local men and is drawn into a complex mystery involving a series of unsolved crimes.

Plumb

Plumb
Author: Maurice Gee, 1978.
Long regarded as one of the finest novels ever written by a New Zealander, Maurice Gee’s Plumb introduces the intolerant, irascible clergyman George Plumb: half saint, half monster, superhuman in his spiritual strength and destructive in his utter self-absorption.

Once Were Warriors

Once Were Warriors
Author: Alan Duff, 1990.
Alan Duff’s harrowing vision of his country’s indigenous people tells the story of Beth Heke, a Maori woman struggling to keep her family from falling apart, despite the squalor and violence of the housing projects in which they live. Conveying both the rich textures of Maori tradition and the wounds left by its absence, Once Were Warriors is a masterpiece of unblinking realism, irresistible energy, and great sorrow.

Come on Shore and We Will Kill and Eat You All - A New Zealand Story

Come on Shore and We Will Kill and Eat You All: A New Zealand Story
Author: Christina Thompson, 2008.
Thompson’s book details the story of the cultural collision between Westerners and the Maoris of New Zealand. The story is told partly as a history of the complex and bloody period of contact between Europeans and the Maoris in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, and partly as the story of Thompson’s marriage to a Maori man.

Travel Equipment

Browse our selection of travel equipment in the section below, or visit our store featuring all travel equipment, including backpacks, travel gadgets and guidebooks.

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CELTA-certificate for EFL teachers

Teaching Abroad: A Step-by-Step Guide for Non-Native Speakers

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Teaching English abroad has become a popular way to travel the world. It allows travelers of all ages to experience new cultures, while at the same time maintaining an affordable lifestyle. Becoming an EFL teacher (English as a Foreign Language, or: ESL; English as a Second Language) not only allows you to see more of the world, it allows you to immerse yourself into cultures you might otherwise just pass by.

While you certainly don’t have to be a native speaker to work abroad as an English teacher, the market does have a strong preference for those who are. Much has been written on how you can get your career as an English teacher started, but there are quite a few differences in applying for a job as a native speaker and as a non-native speaker.

This guide, created by an experienced teacher who has been through the same adventure you are about to embark on, provides you with a step-by-step guide to start your career in teaching English as a second language, while helping you circumvent pitfalls and industry bias.

Table of Contents

Travel the Globe

Step 1: Know your strengths

So, you’ve decided to become an EFL teacher! The decision to leave your old life behind and dive into the world of English teaching is already a great indicator that you are ready for a challenge. If you hope to get your career within the EFL industry started, it is important to first test your knowledge of the English language. Though it seems like an obvious first step, I have witnessed job applicants being refused based on their strong accents, insufficient language abilities, and the poor grammar choices they made during job interviews.

Non-native speakers often find their weaknesses in vocabulary and sentence structure, while their strength lies in grammar. Native speakers acquire their sense of grammar during their early lives, while non-native speakers actively learn and study the English grammar rules. This makes non-native speakers often more competent in explaining and reproducing language points in front of a classroom. Knowing what your strengths and weaknesses are will aid you in the development of your skills and help you to become a stronger competitor within the EFL market.

To determine your language ability you can take part in an accredited exam, such as the IELTs, TOEIC or TOEFL test. Taking an exam will not only help you detect your own strengths and weaknesses, but it will also add firm proof of your grasp of the English language to your CV.

Step 2: Get certified

A major step towards becoming an English teacher is to get certified. To choose which course to take, you first have to set your goals. Some schools will simply accept you with a TEFL certificate from an online course, but others might demand you to have a CELTA certificate as well as a bachelor’s degree in teaching. It is important to know where you want to teach, what kind of school you want to teach at, and what’s required for you to be allowed to teach there.

Of course, there are countries where such teaching qualifications are not required. In parts of South America and Asia, all you have to do is show up and start teaching. These jobs often come with a high level of job insecurity and low wages. The fact that a school does not require you to have any qualification in the language you are about to teach – or any teaching qualification at all – should already send up a red flag concerning the quality of the institution you are applying to.

To be able to apply for the much sought-after jobs in popular EFL countries such as Thailand, China, Turkey, and Mexico, it is important to get qualified. While there are small differences between TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language), TESL (Teaching English as a Second Language) and TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages), the terms are nowadays used interchangeably. The courses are often used to quickly achieve certification at a low cost.

More and more schools, however, deem the courses insufficient as a sole qualification for teaching. As the number of teachers looking for work increases, schools in countries all around the world are becoming more careful in their selection of who they hire. Since the differences in quality between the various TEFL, TESL, and TESOL courses taught is so extreme, there are a number of countries in which these degrees are not considered valid as the sole qualification of a teacher. When choosing a TEFL, TESL, or TESOL course, don’t just look at the costs, but also look at the number of teaching hours, the depth provided by the course, and the reputation of the teaching institution.

The CELTA course distinguishes itself from other certifications due to the fact that it is affiliated with Cambridge University. The courses and institutions teaching them are monitored closely by the university to ensure the quality of the training offered. CELTA is recognized in almost every country in the world due to its reputation for consistently delivering high-quality teachers.

Before setting your aim on a certain country or school, find out what the requirements for teaching there are.

CELTA Certificate
Acquire proper certification to stand out between other applicants (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Step 3: Find out where you can teach

Once you know your strengths and you have acquired proper certification, it is time to find out where you can put your skills to use. Or, as a non-native speaker, find out where you are allowed to put them to use. Each school has its own policies for hiring teachers and is equally bound by the rules set by their government.

Some countries don’t allow non-native speakers to teach English in their schools. In Western countries, for example, the hiring policies are generally quite strict: many Western European countries will not even consider a native speaker if the applicant lacks a bachelor’s or master’s degree in (English) teaching. In other countries exceptions are made for citizens of certain nations: for example, some schools in Spain and Italy consider Dutch and Danish citizens to be native speakers as well, due to the general level of English spoken within their respective countries.

Countries that do allow non-native speakers to teach English are in turn becoming increasingly picky in who they hire, often demanding teachers to have either a TEFL, TESOL or CELTA qualification. The EFL industry is a tough market to compete in as a non-native speaker, but in spite of all the demands, there are still lots of opportunities for you to teach abroad as long as you come well-prepared.

Step 4: Make choices

What country would you like to teach in? Do you have a preference for big cities, or do you enjoy small towns? Do you feel more comfortable teaching children or adults? Would you like to be employed by a primary school, a high school, a university, an international school, or would you rather teach at a more selective private school? Will you teach for a few months, or are you considering to teach for several years? The list goes on, and we haven’t even started asking country-specific questions yet: for example, what cultures do you prefer to explore, what climate do you feel most comfortable in and what are the costs of living in the countries you prefer? Answering all of these questions will clear the path to achieve your goals, while navigating the sometimes overwhelming options of EFL teaching.

As a non-native speaker, it might be difficult to land a dream job in your country of choice right off the bat. To build experience, great opportunities lie in temporary teaching jobs at (residential) summer schools in Europe. A residential teaching job in the United Kingdom will pay around $530,- (€450,-) a week. Since the summer schools offer free food and accommodation, you will be able to save quite a bit of money during your stay.

British Residential School
The lively world of residential school teaching in the United Kingdom (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Step 5: Apply for jobs

Once you’ve chosen which country you want to teach in, it is wise to search for a comprehensive list of all schools that offer EFL jobs within that country. A good source for such lists is ESL Base. Sending open applications through the schools’ websites can be a fruitful undertaking. By applying directly at the schools, you circumvent competition coming from websites listing jobs.

Of course, these websites shouldn’t be ignored. Major sources of EFL vacancies are Tefl.com, Dave’s ESL Café, and ESL Jobfeed. Applying to vacancies posted on these websites will allow you to tailor your applications to the specific needs of employers. Browsing these websites as a freshly certified non-native speaker can be quite demotivating, as many – if not most – vacancies require you to be a native speaker with at least 1 year of experience in teaching English. Generally, this is just a way for schools to reduce the number of (unsuitable) applicants. Ignoring each of these seemingly demanding vacancies might leave you with very few teaching opportunities. Keep in mind that with a neat CV and a strong motivational letter, schools are generally willing to give you a chance even if you don’t fully meet their requirements.

Once you start applying for jobs, make sure to keep track of all the applications you’ve sent out, and the responses you received: this will allow you to form better insights into the job market and help you improve further applications.

The application process for EFL jobs is comparable to that of any other job. However, be aware that job interviews within the EFL industry might range from five simple questions to grueling 1,5-hour sparring matches compassing anything from personal questions to extremely specific grammar questions. It would be wise to compose a list of potential questions and think about the answers before you engage in your first match. Also, when applying for a job teaching children, expect to be asked personal questions relating to your sense of responsibility, trustworthiness, and your experiences in taking care of children.

Step 6: Overcome industry bias

When it comes to teaching English abroad there are still many unspoken truths about who schools prefer to hire. It is important to know that even though your English might be on par with that of a native speaker and you have acquired certification, schools might still prefer hiring a true native speaker. The concern they have with considering a non-native speaker is that the applicant might not have an adequate level of English. Especially when the amount of applications is great enough to allow schools to be picky, the applications from non-native speakers will often simply be skimmed off the top.

To overcome industry bias, it is important to be able to show potential employees your qualities. Build a strong CV, indicating your qualities relating to teaching, and write a comprehensive, but not overlong motivational letter. When a potential employer shows interest, always push for a telephone or Skype interview to make sure you can show off your skills.

EFL Teacher CV
A strong CV can help you overcome industry bias (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

One very persistent unspoken truth within the EFL industry is a rather controversial one: the issue of racism. Especially in Southeast Asia, the EFL industry is ruled by a strong separation of races. In Thailand, research was conducted among the parents of primary school children to see which type of teacher they preferred for their kids. Parents were shown three fake teacher profiles with pictures and credentials. The first profile showed a picture of a well-dressed black man with a master’s degree in teaching English. The profile document showed a picture of a Thai woman with a bachelor’s degree in education. The third profile showed an unkempt white man, with no specific teaching certification. The parents were then asked who they would pick as their child’s educator in the English language. The slobby white man was the top favorite.

No matter the credibility of the research conducted, it does capture the underlying spirit in many EFL markets. To overcome industry bias, it is imperative to strengthen your position within the EFL market with a neat CV, an engaging letter, and above all, a strong, thought-out, and well-stated motivation. Once you’ve convinced a potential employer you are the man or woman for the job, they will embrace you no matter who you are, or where you come from.

Step 7: The fine print

Congratulations, you secured yourself a job offer! The next step is to negotiate the terms of your contract and to sign on the dotted line. Some schools might offer to refund your flight or promise you other attractive bonuses. Usually, these are paid at the completion of your contract.

Contracts differ just as much as the schools themselves. In Europe, contracts are often very elaborate and have strict rules and regulations concerning employer and employee protection. Contracts coming from Asia and South America might in turn leave you flabbergasted by the lack of protection you have as an employee. Cultures and laws differ, and it is important to keep in mind that despite the sometimes odd terms found within these contracts, rules are more flexible in lesser developed countries than in the west. Of course, it is always important to read any contract attentively. If necessary, you can ask if some adjustments can be made.

Today's Homework 'Always Smile'
It’s all part of the exciting EFL game (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Step 8: Go, teach!

You signed your contact and booked your flight. This is what you’ve worked towards all this time! Whether you chose to teach in a small school in the heart of Africa, or joined the ranks of a luxurious international school in Bangkok, your adventure is about to begin! Make sure to pack appropriate clothes for teaching, a computer for lesson planning and research and a camera to capture to experience you’re about to embark on… Good luck!

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Monthly meditationceremony at Wat Phra Dhammakaya

Teaching English in Thailand: Living and Working in Khlong Luang

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Teaching English abroad allows travelers to stay in foreign countries for extended periods of time, while at the same time traveling around the world. One of the most popular countries in the world to work as an ESL-teacher (English as a Second Language) is Thailand.

Situated in Southeast Asia, Thailand will offer you the perfect combination of modern Asian culture and rural countryside experiences. Thailand’s capital Bangkok is one of the region’s main hubs and is regarded as one of the world’s major cities “where east meets west”. Throughout the years, Bangkok adopted all the comforts of the Western world, yet maintained its sense of self majestically.

In the city, heavy traffic conditions are counteracted by a state of the art public transportation system, huge shopping malls are situated next to tiny, family-owned shops, big restaurant chains compete with small food stalls, and the tranquility of the Buddhist temples merges with the city’s bombastic red-light districts. Nevertheless, within less than 100 kilometers from the city, you can still find yourself lost within the country’s rice paddies, fishing villages, and floating markets…

Table of Contents

Travel the Globe
Teaching abroad is considered one of the best ways to explore the world (Credit: Pixabay)

Khlong Luang

One of those places is the Khlong Luang District, situated45 kilometers north of Bangkok along the road to Ayutthaya. Khlong Luang houses around 100 tiny villages, as well as Thailand’s largest campus, Thammasart University. The campus in Khlong Luang is known as the “Rangsit” campus – and was founded as an extension of the university’s campus in Bangkok. With its bright yellow and red flags, the esteemed university attracts students from all over the country.

The Rangsit campus has become a small village in itself: within the last decade student apartment blocks, coffee shops and 7-Elevens spurted out of the ground between the rice fields of Khlong Luang to tend to the needs of the district’s new residents. Several idyllic canals lined with waterlilies still run through the campus and offer passers-by a surprising amount of wildlife: not a day on campus goes by without a confrontation with a large, several meters long monitor lizard.

Monitor Lizard
One of the campus’ many amphibious residents (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Thammasart Rangsit is far enough removed from Bangkok to shed all the capital’s touristic hubbub, yet still buzzes with activity day and night due to the high amount of residential students. Outside the campus, the canals between the rice paddies are still adorned by small wooden houses.

Due to the arrival of Thammasart Rangsit in the district, special services were set up in and around the campus, tailored to the needs of Thammasart’s students and teachers. These services include private schools for studying English, a kindergarten, and a primary school (for the children of the local staff). Thammasart’s on-campus facilities also include a library, a temple, a stadium, an aquatic sports center, a tennis court, a gym (with a swimming pool), a gas station, a post office, a hospital, and a pre-school childcare center. Off-campus there are shops, hairdressers, mini-markets, cafés, and clubs. Faculties, offices, and dorms make up for the rest of the campus.

Map of Thammasart University Rangsit
Map of Thammasat University, Rangsit (Credit: Thammasat University)

Teaching Opportunities

There are plenty of opportunities to teach English in Khlong Luang. First and foremost, there’s Thammasart Rangsit and the adjacent Asian Institute of Technology (AIT). Both require well-qualified teachers with considerable experience. The workload at universities in Thailand is light, while the pay is quite high: expect to earn north of 60,000 baht (€1.590 or $1,880) per month.

Just a few steps outside the southern gate of Thammasart Rangsit lies the vivid U-Square, where several language schools have set up shop. These schools usually offer part-time work at around 350-500 baht (€9,30-13,10 or $11.00-15.50) per hour, with an average class duration of 1,5 hours.

Thammasart University Rangsit
The Rangsit campus of Thammasart University (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Within 10 kilometers of the Thammasart’s campus, you will also find a host of international schools, offering high salaries averaging at 45,000 baht (€1,192 or $1,410) per month and up. Most of these schools are situated around Future Park Rangsit, one of Asia’s largest malls halfway towards Bangkok. In the area, there are also a few private schools, which usually pay around 40,000-60,000 baht (€1,058-1608 or $1,250-1,900) per month.

Last, but not least, on Thammasart Rangsit’s campus grounds there is a kindergarten and a public elementary school. Working at a public school in Thailand pays around 30,000-45,000 baht (€795-1,193 or $940-1,410) per month. The workload is intense and often exceeds 40 hours per week, but in return, teaching at a public school will allow you to completely immerse into Thai society, unlike any other type of school.

While living in Khlong Luang, my (also CELTA-certified) partner and I combined a full-time job at Thammasart’s elementary school with an evening job at a local language school. Additionally, we set up our own private tutoring classes at the Golf View student community village. Our private learners ranged from students seeking to quickly advance their language skills and students preparing for a language test to young professionals preparing to move abroad.

Elementary Students at Thammasart University
Students gathering for a ceremony at Thammasart Rangsit’s primary school (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Housing, Community, and Cost of Living

Among the countryside dwellings of Khlong Luang lies a colorful complex of apartment blocks named Golf View. This is where my partner and I settled during our stay in Thailand.

Golf View serves as a small self-contained community. The complex counts 22 colorful seven-story flats, supported by a host of little restaurants, launderettes, hairdresser, mini-markets, a gym, a sports hall, and a swimming pool. Each of these shops is family-owned and operated. The community of Golf View consists of students, young professionals, teachers, and local entrepreneurs. A host of recurring faces serve the residents their daily meals, which makes living in Golf View feel like settling down in a small village.

During our first week in Golf View, we still had to find our bearings: no one at the local restaurant spoke English and in the beginning, it was a continuous challenge to prevent our food from being overly spicy. Even “not spicy” still meant a pepper or two. During one of our dinners, a student came up to us. In broken English he asked whether the proprietor of the restaurant could take a picture of us for his Facebook page; the man was apparently very proud to have Caucasian guests. It felt a bit awkward to be asked for a picture just because of our skin color, but we understood. Despite these first, strenuous interactions, however, we were able to pleasantly ease into the community once the novelty factor of our two white faces had worn off.

Golf View, Khlong Luang
The colorful apartment blocks at Golf View (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Living in Golf View made it easy to emerge into the daily life of Thai people, something we quickly learned Bangkok would have never allowed us to do – at least, not to this extend. During our stay in Khlong Luang, we met less than ten Westerners in the entire whole region; three of them were our colleagues, one of them our boss.

Living in Khlong Luang was perfectly affordable. Our rent came up at 6,400 baht (€170.- or $200) per month, plus approximately 1,500 baht (€40 or $47) per month for the internet, water, and electricity. The rent included an unavoidable 200 baht “white people tax” charged for “the view of the rice paddies”; something we noticed our Thai neighbors were not paying for. Due to our double salary, we were able to live quite comfortably: we had a new, fully furnished apartment with two rooms. Most of our colleagues, however, rented single apartments at 2,600 baht (€68 or $81) per month.

Of course, there are many other housing opportunities in Khlong Luang. Accommodation opportunities range from simple one-room, on-campus flats to freestanding houses in the middle of the forest.

Our first full year in Thailand we spent about 1,000,000 baht (€26,446 or $31,270) together, which includes any and all costs – even holiday expenses.

Lizzy the Common House Gecko (Tjitjak)
When living in Thailand, every once in a while you will have a new roommate (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Eat, Drink & Party

Food prices around Golf View and Thammasart Rangsit’s campus come up at 40 baht (€1.06 $1.25) per person for breakfast, lunch, or dinner; 60 baht (€1.59 or $1.88) including drinks. The prices in Khlong Luang are so low, it makes absolutely everything in Bangkok feel expensive.

Around Golf View, AIT, Interzone, and U-Square there are dozens of cafes, coffee shops, and restaurants. I would definitely recommend the coffees at AIT’s Hom Krun Coffee, Indian food at AIT’s Som Tam Eatery, club sandwiches at Interzone’s Kissing You, and of course the Thai classics Som Tam with sticky rice and Tom Yam Kung from proprietress Joy’s family-owned and operated restaurant in Golf View.

The Asian Institute of Technology, Thailand (AIT)
At the Asian Institute of Technology you can find amazing Indian food (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

As for parties, in 2015, the Thai government issued an amendment to the country’s Alcoholic Beverage Control Act: it was no longer be allowed to sell alcohol within 300 meters from any educational institute. This caused many of the local pubs around Thammasart Rangsit to close, or to scratch alcohol off its menus. Thammasart’s students simply shrugged off the government’s law, though, and took a short ride towards the now incredibly popular range of cafes situated just outside the government’s booze border. For some major partying you can take a dive into Bangkok’s crazy nightlife – go crazy with the other “farangs” at Khao San Road, or party with the locals in the less touristic areas of the city.

Every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday markets are set up on campus grounds. At the markets, you can buy freshly made food, clothes, and a wide range of accessories. We especially liked the Interzone Market, which offers the possibility to eat Western food. Living in Khlong Luang, far from Western society, non-Asian food became a real treat! Aside from every Thai meal imaginable, vendors at the Interzone Market offer potato-based dishes, Italian food, and many other Western meals.

Though at Golf View we sometimes visited the local Italian restaurant, the chance that they actually had Italian food was always slim. We once had to wait over a month for the chef who made the restaurant’s pizzas to return… and when he finally did, he didn’t have the right ingredients to make pizza.

Transport Around Golf View and the Campus

Transport between Golf View and Thammasart is regulated by Golf View’s administrative office. Minivans continuously run between the community and the campus all day, leaving whenever a van is filled to capacity.

Walking across Thammasart University’s campus will take approximately 30 minutes, but due to the heat, it is not recommended. As an alternative, there are five types of transportation available within the campus. There are several small yellow busses offering free transport across campus. The routes these yellow busses follow are additionally frequented by songthaews, which cost 4 baht (€0,11 or $0,13). The songthaews, however, are quite uncomfortable during the day as even a five-minute ride can feel like a fifteen-minute sauna experience.

If you are in a hurry to get somewhere, you might consider using a taxi. Regular taxis and motorcycle taxis can be found at each of the campus’ entrances and along the major roads surrounding the campus. Any given place within the campus can be reached for approximately 30 baht (€0,65 or $0,77) by regular taxi service, or for 20 baht (€0,43 or $0,51) by motorcycle taxi. Unlike in Bangkok, motorcycle taxis are quite safe on campus as the roads are spacious and the traffic is light.

Personally, though, I prefer the fifth and final option: renting a bicycle. For just 5 baht per day (€0,11 or $0,13) you can rent your own campus bicycle, which you are allowed to use until you no longer need it. You can arrange to rent a bicycle at the campus’ Sports Service Center, or at one of the bicycle storage facilities. The rules relating to bike-rentals change quite often, however, and it will depend on the mood of the employee at the bicycle storage facility what terms you’re offered. To make things easier, bring an interpreter to explain what you want.

I used my bicycle to get to work every single day. The campus is bicycle-friendly and has special paths allocated for cyclists – although Thai students often confuse these for footpaths. The campus’ scenery is great, cycling offers a bit of exercise and most important: it allows you to arrive at work without a single drop of sweat on your forehead, while your colleagues who took the songthaew will be running towards the nearest fan.

The Thammasart University Rangsit Campus
Renting a bicycle also allows you access to more remote spaces of the campus (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Surrounding Area

From Khlong Luang, popular destinations such as Bangkok, Ayutthaya and Chiang Mai are easily reached. There are busses, songthaews and minivans offering transport between Khlong Luang and Bangkok. Minivans to Bangkok run throughout the day from Thammasart’s on-campus terminal and costs 32 baht (€0,85 or $1,00). The minivans leave whenever filled to capacity and there are always plenty to go around.

A taxi covering the same 40 kilometers to the city center will cost between 200 and 300 baht (€5,30-7,95 or $6.25-$9.40) depending on traffic. Taking a taxi comes with the option of using the elevated high-speed expressway, which will cost another 80 baht (€2,12 or $2,51). However, other than being a fancy way of traveling, this won’t actually offer you a speedy arrival. During the day and at night both roads are clear; during rush hour you’ll be happily stuck on both roads.

From the local train station – which can be reached with the same busses and songthaews that go towards Bangkok – trains travel south to Bangkok and north toward Chiang Mai. Major cities served by the northern line include Ayutthaya, Nakhon Sawan, Phitsanulok, Lampang and Chiang Mai. Another major transport hub is the Don Muang airport, which offers both national and international flights.

Close to Thammasart Rangsit you will find Future Park Rangsit, one of Asia’s largest malls. The 280,000 m2 mall houses a plethora of shops, including two major department stores each at one end of the mall, several major supermarkets, over seventy restaurants, and food outlets, eight banks, over a dozen hairdressers, a post office, a fitness club, a host of language schools, a 2-acre cinematic megaplex and a whole floor primarily allocated to selling electronics. From Future Park bus terminal busses and minivans depart towards Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Bang Pa-In, and many other destinations.

Wat Phra Dhammakaya
Monthly meditation ceremony at Wat Phra Dhammakaya (Credit: The Bite-Sized Backpacker)

Lastly, Thammasart Rangsit is situated close to Wat Phra Dhammakaya, the most well-known and the fastest-growing temple of the Dhammakaya Movement. Every first Sunday of the month, hundreds of monks and thousands of Buddhists gather at the temple for meditation. Join them, or take a few days off to attend the temple’s POP House Meditation Retreat.

A New-Born Community

Overall, Khlong Luang offers ESL teachers a unique view of a magnificent country. While many teachers hoping to find work in Thailand either opt for the riches of Bangkok or the bohemian vibe of Chiang Mai, Khlong Luang offers visitors something completely different: a once in a lifetime experience within an authentic, new-born community, risen from the country’s fertile rice fields.

More Information on Teaching English abroad

Job Search: most jobs for foreign teachers can be found on TEFL.com, Ajarn, i-to-i TEFL, Dave’s ESL Café, and ESL Base. TEFL.com and Ajarn often prove to offer most vacancies in Thailand, however, a more direct route into employment comes from speculative job applications. Apply directly at specific schools, either by e-mail or during a personal visit.

List of schools in Thailand: check out the extensive list of schools based in Thailand, compiled by ESL Base. When I was looking for work in Thailand, I applied at approximately 60 Thai schools, many of which are included on this list. Bear in mind that though many of these schools might have awful looking websites, this does not mean the quality of those schools is equally bad. Use your common sense before applying to each school; the quality of their response to your application will tell you a lot more about their qualities as an employer than their websites do.

Thai Visa and Work Permit: for each country, visa requirements differ. Most Western nationalities are granted visa-free travel to Thailand for a period of up to 30 days. If you don’t have a job before you move to Thailand, it is possible to directly apply for a visa with a 30-day extension at the Thai embassy or consulate, to allow yourself more time to find employment. Once in Thailand (and employed), it is possible to change your tourist visa into a Non-Immigrant Visa “B” 90-day work visa, which can in turn be extended for a period of one year from the date of your first entry into Thailand. Many schools will aid you in this process.

Thammasart University: Thailand’s second-oldest institute of higher education, Thammasart University, offers well-paid jobs in a professional environment.

Housing: around Thammasart University, there are many housing opportunities, such as Golf View and The Campus.

Transport to and from Thammasart University: Transit Bangkok offers a schedule of all busses within the region of Bangkok and also lists the schedules for the MRT (the metro), the BTS (the sky train) and the boats on the Chao Phraya River. Keep in mind Thammasart also has its own minivan service to Bangkok, and songthaews run the same routes as busses all day long.

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